Abscesses

Abcesses occur when a bite, scratch or wound becomes infected and pus forms under the skin resulting in a lump. Often the bite or scratch may go unnoticed. Indeed by the time the lump is noticed the bite or scratch which originally became infected may have healed so it is often difficult to establish whether the lump is an abscess or a tumour. If a bite or scratch can be seen on the lump then it is almost certainly an abscess. An abscess will require the pus to be drained and a course of antibiotics may be needed to treat the infection and so veterinary treatment must be sought. In extreme cases it may be necessary to visit the vet regularly as the pus may need to removed more than once whilst the infection clears. Some abscesses may burst and this can increase the chances of infection making the hamster very ill. Therefore even if an abscess should burst before you have the opportunity to take the hamster to a vet it is still advisable to seek veterinary advice as antibiotics may still be required to help fight the infection even if drainage of the abscess is not required. Sharp objects or pieces of food that the hamster stuffs in its cheekpouches may pierce the lining of the pouch and become stuck. This in turn can cause the pouch to become infected and an abscess to occur. This can initially be mistaken for the hamster carrying food or bedding in its cheekpouch as the cheekpouch area is swollen. However, if the hamster seems to continuiously have its cheekpouches full it may be that the pouches are impacted or an abscess within the cheekpouch has occurred and veterinary advice should be sought. Hamsters usually recover from abscesses well and fairly quickly when treated.

Allergy

There are some items to which hamsters are allergic and individual hamsters may have allergies to different items. Cedar Shavings can cause allergic reactions as well as respiratory problems in hamsters and should not be used. Pine shavings are preferable to Cedar but wood shavings from hard woods, such as Aspen, or paper based shavings are the best used. A hamster may become allergic to certain foods and too much high energy 'heating' foods such as oats, corn and maize in the diet can cause skin irritation with the hamster scratching excessively. Bedding material, cage cleaner, dust, etc can also cause allergic reactions in some hamsters. The symptoms of an allergy can vary but may include sneezing, wheezing, skin irritation, runny eyes, fur loss. Allergy to a cage cleaner or wood shavings can result in irritated stomach and feet. If an allergy is suspected it is necessary to establish the cause of the allergy. The first thing to consider is whether anything has changed in your hamster's routine which could be the cause of the allergy - has something new been bought for the hamster, has the food or bedding been changed, something added to the room in which the hamster is kept, etc? Woodshavings and bedding can be replaced with tissue paper to establish if the bedding material is the cause of the allergy, feeding a plain diet or dog biscuits only for a few days may establish if the hamster is suffering from a food allergy and moving the hamster to a different room may help to establish if it is something in it's environment which is the cause of the allergy. Once the source of the allergy has been found this should be removed and the hamster should recover fairly quickly. If the hamster shows a severe allergic reaction, or has problems breathing veterinary advice should be sought immediately.

Antibiotics

Any medicine designed for human (or any other animals) medication should never be used on hamsters unless administered by a veterinarian. Antibiotics that can be used safely for hamsters are Baytrill and Neomycin. All antibiotics listed below cause extreme allergic reactions in hamsters (some are toxic!) and should NEVER be used : Ampicillin, Dihydrostreptomycin, Erythromycin, Penicillin, Streptomycin, Tetracycline

Aspergillis Fungus

Aspergillis Fungus develops in the area of the cage where the hamster urinates. The fungus then grows on the urine patches in the cage and releases spores which then affect the hamster. The fungus can be seen as white and then black in colour in the area where the hamster urinates. Once affected by the fungus spores the hamster becomes lethargic, has difficulty breathing and may have itchy or inflamed skin and sometimes chronic diarrhoea. Hamsters suffering from Bladder Infections are more at risk of developing the disease. Prevention is better than cure and the use of a cage disinfectant containing an anti-fungicide will help to prevent the fungus developing. The fungus can also develop on rotting vegetables so ensure that any stored vegetables are removed from the cage. Immediate veterinary treatment should be sought as the hamster will require antiobiotics (Baytrill) and anti-fungal medication (Griseofulvin). Early treatment is vital as once the hamster is infected with the fungus it can prove fatal. Due to the fact that the fungus is transmitted by air-borne spores any other hamsters should also be treated.

Bladder/Kidney-infections

Hamsters can suffer from bladder or kidney infections. The most common symptoms are excessive urinating, blood in the urine and excessive drinking. Other symptoms may include squealing when urinating and listlessness. A hamster with a bladder or kidney infection will require antibiotic treatment by a vet to cure the infection and will need to be kept warm. Access to sufficient water is also essential. It is also adviseable to clean the cage more regularly, using a disinfectant designed for small animal cages to prevent the Aspergillis Fungus developing in the area of the cage the hamster uses for urinating. Once treated hamsters usually recover from bladder and kidney infections within a few days. However, very rarely a hamster may have a severe kidney disorder or kidney failure and as well as the above symptoms may show severe wasting. Unfortunately such severe problems may not be cureable. Hamsters that are fed a poor quality diet or a diet high in fat content are more susceptible to developing bladder infections as this causes the urine to become more alkaline.

Broken Limbs

Occasionally a hamster may break a limb or its tail from a fall, even whilst in its cage. Often the accident that resulted in the broken limb occurs in the evening or night and is not witnessed but the following morning the hamster may be limping or have a bent tail. If a hamster does fall or injure itself it may also be in shock and if so this will need treating immediately. Unfortunately, because of their small size, it is not possible to plaster a hamster's broken limb (and the hamster would chew it off anyway!) and so it is left to heal naturally. It will help the hamster if exercise is kept to a minimum whilst the limb is healing and so any wheel should be removed from the cage, and if possible the hamster should be placed in an aquarium to prevent climbing up cage bars, etc. Feeding some bread soaked in milk or dog biscuits high in calcium will help the bone to heal. Occasionally, a broken limb may result in the bone breaking through the skin and becoming exposed. In this event the hamster should be taken to a vet as antibiotic treatment may be needed to prevent infection and the vet may consider that it is necessary to try to move the bone and/or stitch the skin in order that the bone does not remain exposed. The limb or tail will heal within a week or two, although the hamster may be left with a slight limp or crooked or bent tail. This is nothing to worry about and does not usually cause the hamster any distress and it will learn to adapt.

Colds

Hamsters can suffer colds and are able to catch colds and flu from humans. Therefore if you have a cold or flu you should keep handling of your hamster to a mimum until you are recovered to avoid spreading your cold to the hamster. Hamsters can also catch a cold if the cage is exposed to draughts or are bathed. Signs that a hamster has a cold are normally sneezing and runny nose. In more severe cases the hamster may have runny eyes, lethargy, weight loss, refusal to eat and drink or laboured breathing/wheeziness. If the hamster exhibits signs of sneezing and running nose only and it continues to eat and drink and is active it should be kept in a warm room (not hot) of constant temperature and away from draughts. Some extra paper bedding should be placed in the cage and the hamster should recover within a couple of days. If the hamster does not recover after a couple of days or worsens veterinary advice should be sought as antibiotic treatment may be required. If the hamster exhibits any signs of a severe cold (runny eyes, lethargy, weight loss, refusal to eat/drink or laboured breathing/wheeziness) veterinary advice should be sought immediately as antibiotic treatment is likely to be needed and failure to treat quickly could lead to bronchitis or pneumonia from which the hamster may have trouble recovering. Giving a mixture of lukewarm water, milk and honey will also help with the hamster's recovery. Provided colds are treated early before severe symptoms occur the hamster should make a full recovery within a few days.

Constipation

Constipation usually occurs due to a lack of water, stomach blockage or eating too much dry pelleted food. The symptoms of constipation are a lack of droppings, or a reduced amount of droppings, in the cage. Any droppings that are present may be small and hard. The hamster may also be seen to be having difficulting in passing faeces or may walk 'hunched up' as if in pain. Other symptoms may include loss of apetite and some wetness around the anus. If the hamster has constipation ensure water is available and feed some fruit and vegetable. Feeding a drop of vegetable oil may also help to relieve the constipation. If the hamster is not making recovery by the following day it is best to take the hamster to a vet who can give some medication to relieve the constipation. Once treated by the vet the hamster should recovery within a few days.

Dehydration

A hamster may become dehydrated when suffering from diarrhoea or when suffering from mild or severe heat stroke. The hamster is weak and may breath heavily but slowly and the body may appear thinner. You can check to see if the hamster is dehydrated by pulling the skin away from the body. If the skin slowly falls back to the body rather than quickly returns to normal the hamster is dehydrated. Give the hamster some water with a tiny bit of sugar and salt in it (using a syringe without the needle to gently syringe some drops of the solution into the side of the mouth). If the dehydration is not due to diarrhoea the feeding of a vegetable high in water content (such as cucumber) will also help.

Diabetes

Diabetes is most often seen in Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamsters but can affect other species. Unfortunately many of the early Albino Campbells were found to have the disease but from the cross breeding of colours it can occur now in any colour. Reputable breeders have worked hard to eliminate diabetes and it is not a common problem. Hamsters that develop diabetes will show symptoms of excessive drinking, excessive urinating and wasting. Other symptoms may include low body temperature, shaking and trembling and at worst a comatose state. Veterinary treatment should be sought immediately. A pedialyte solution in the water bottle will help to avoid dehydration. In some cases the feeding of a sugar free diet will help. If your vet recommends a sugar free diet this can be achieved by feeding a good quality seed mix, alfafa, fresh vegetables such as carrots, turnips, potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower daily and some boiled egg. Commercially processed food treats should be avoided because of the molasses and corn sugar they contain and fresh fruit should be avoided because of the frutose. Diabetes can be passed genetically to offspring and so any diabetic hamster should not be bred from.

Diarrhea

A hamster can suffer from diarrhoea for a number of reasons. Sudden changes in diet and the feeding of too much vegetables and moist food are two common causes. The droppings of a hamster suffering from diarrhoea are usually light coloured, soft and watery. The hamster may appear wet around the anus and sometimes a little messy. The hamster usually appears healthy otherwise although the body may start to look a little 'sunken' due to dehydration. Many owners confuse diarrhoea with Wet Tail of which one of the symptoms is diarrhoea. A hamster suffering from diarrhoea should only be fed their normal dry hamster mix and should not be fed any vegetables or moist food until recovered. The only green food which may help a hamster with diarrhoea is raspberry bush leaves as these have astringent properties. Arrowroot can also be given to the hamster to aid recovery from diarrhoea. . The hamster should be kept warm and you should ensure that the hamster is drinking and has plenty of water to avoid dehydration. In most casing withholding vegetables will cure the diarrhoea in a 1 or 2 days. It is usually best to wait a week or two after the hamster has recovered before re-introducing vegetables back into their diet. If however, after withholding vegetables and moist food, the hamster does not recover after 2 days, the diarrhoea is accompanied by other symptoms or the hamster's condition deteriorates veterinary advice should be sought. In such cases a vet may administer anti-diarrhoeal medication and give help with rehydration. If accompanied by other symptoms antibiotics may be required.

Diet deficiency

A hamster should be fed a diet which meets its nutritional requirements and an inadequate diet can lead to health problems. Mixes prepared for other animals may not meet the needs of a hamster, and some mixes may actually harm the hamster. Therefore it is important to feed a mix specifically designed for hamsters. An inadequate diet can result in fur loss, wasting, and lethargy. If diet deficiency is suspected the hamster's diet should be changed and vitamin drops should be added to the hamster's water. If the hamster does not improve within a week or worsens or shows other symptoms veterinary advice should be sought. Once the hamster has been transferred to a good diet the hamster should improve within a week or two.

Dri Tail

This is an "over the counter"-antibiotic; available without prescription in the USA, Canada and Great Britain (fortunately not in Germany!). The manufacturer and a few people are telling stories about the ability of this product to cure Wet Tail (=> Health, Wet Tail).

Dri Tail is an unspecific antibiotic, that will never be able to cure a severe infection like Wet Tail! If your hamster is suffering an infection, veterinarian advice should be sought immediately. Hamsters are developing serious infections very fast, so that every day, if not every hour does count !

If Dri Tail did cure a problem, it was indeed not a severe infection. Most stories of successful from Wet Tail recovered hamsters by using Dri Tail are basically caused by wrong diagnosing of Wet Tail - they are simply misinterpreting a simple diarrhea as Wet Tail.

Ear infection

A hamster suffering from an ear infection shows lack of co-ordination and may fall over. The hamster may also hold its head to one side. Antibiotic treatment is needed and so veterinary advice should be sought. The symptoms of an ear infection are often very similar to the symptoms of a stroke. Hamsters have also been known to develop wart infections around the ears and these require veterinary treatment.

Euthanasia

This is the most difficult decision a hamster-owner may have to make.

Sometimes, after a serious accident, injury or disease, there may be no possible treatment left to ease your hamsters suffering and it may be impossible for him to recover. In that cases, the only option left is to put him to sleep before he will have to suffer till his death.

It is always hard to lose a pet, but letting him suffer cause youīre unable to make the necesssary and kind decision to end his life, is selfish.

As a rule of thumb, you should ask yourself whether or not the good days of your little friend will outnumber the bad days. As long as there are more or equal good days, thereīs no reason to put him to sleep. But if this changes, there isnīt any quality of life left and itīs better to end his suffering.

Friends donīt let a friend suffer.

Euthanasia should always be carried out by a veterinarian. Donīt try it yourself.

Eye problems

Occasionally a hamster may get a sticky eye where the eyelids are fused together and older hamsters may be prone to 'sticky eyes'. This is often because a hamster may have something it its eye such as a piece of dust or it could be because the hamster's cage is placed in a draught or could be a symptom of a cold or allergy. The closed eye should be wiped with a small piece of cotton wool soaked in luke warm water. This is usually sufficient to open the eye but if not the eyelids can gently be pulled apart. If a hamster has recurring problems with runny or sticky eyes or the eye appears cloudy the hamster could have an eye infection. This can be treated by mixing half a cup of sterile (boiled and cooled) water with a teaspoon of boric acid powder (available from a chemist or pharmacy) and using an eye dropper to bathe the eye twice or three times a day. If the hamster does not show improvement within a couple of days veterinary advice should be sought as antibiotics may help. Although rare, hamsters can develop cataracts and the symptom is a cloudy eye. Although the cataract cannot be treated it is worth seeking veterinary confirmation as the symptoms of a treatable eye infection are sometimes similar. Occasionally a hamster may lose an eye due to accident or illness or the eyes may be missing due to genetic deformity. The loss of an eye or blindness does not affect the hamster too much as their eyesight is very poor and they rely mainly on smell and hearing.

Fur loss

Hamsters moult throughout the summer and autumn and at this time many hamsters may have periods where their coats are sparse or may have areas of fur loss. During times of sudden and extreme temperature changes fur loss resulting in large bald patches can occur. This is usually nothing to be concerned about and fur will usually start to regrow within a few weeks. All species of hamsters moult but the Chinese and Roborovski are generally less affected than the Russian species and the Syrian Hamster. Nursing females may often develop some fur loss on their stomach and this is usually nothing to be concerned about as the fur will regrow once nursing is complete. Fur loss can also occur in older hamsters (usually around one year of age or over) and usually occurs on the belly, hindleg and hip area first. Fur loss can also be a symptom of a skin infection or skin allergy, mites, mange, diet deficiency or thyroid problems. If fur loss is observed the skin should be checked for any signs of irritation, flakiness, scabs or sores. The hamster should also be observed for excessive scratching or any other signs of illness ie weight loss, lethargy, etc. If the hamster is exhibiting any signs of illness along with fur loss the hamster should be isolated from any others and veterinary advice sought immediately. General fur loss due to old age or moulting (with no other symptoms) can be helped by crushing a yeast tablet on the hamster's food every other day, lessening the amount once fur has started to regrow. (Yeast tablets can usually be found at a chemist or pharmacy amongst the human vitamin tablets). If yeast tablets are unavailable, vitamin drops (available from pet stores) added to the water will aid fur re-growth.

Genetic deformities

Certain colours of hamsters are prone to genetic deformities and some illness are genetically linked and can be passed to offspring. There are myths that inbreeding results in genetically deformed offspring but this is not ture. It is only the inbreeding of hamsters that carry genes for a genetic deformity that will produce genetically deformed offspring and not all inbreeding will result in genetic defects. Indeed, inbreeding of good quality, healthy hamsters will pass these qualities onto their offspring. Dark Grey Syrian Hamsters and colours derived from the Dark Grey (Lilac, Smoke Pearl, Lilac Pearl, Black Eyed Ivory, Red Eyed Ivory, Blue Mink) are prone to spinal deformities. A hamster suffering from a genetic spinal deformity may have a kinked tail or the spine may be crooked or curled. Any hamster showing this type of spinal deformity should not be bred from as the deformity will be passed to the offspring. The Anopthalmic White gene produces the Roan or White Bellied Syrian. (The white belly on the Dominant Spot or Banded Syrian is not due to the White Bellied gene). This Anopthalmic White gene when present in both parents can produce Eyeless White babies. These are white hamsters with very small or non-existent black eyes. The hamster is largely unaffected as it relies mainly on smell and sound but obviously it is something that should be avoided. Hind Leg Paralysis is a genetic deformity affecting male Syrian Hamsters. The paralysis usually occurs in males between 6 and 10 months of age and the deformity can be passed to male offspring. Therefore affected males should not be bred from and as no cure is available it may be kinder to euthanaise any affected male. The Ruby Eyed Mottled Dwarf Campbells Russian can produce deformed offspring when mated with another Ruby Eyed Mottled. The offspring are born with a cleft pallete, no teeth and often have no eyes. Due to the lack of teeth the offspring do not usually survive weaning. Missing limbs at birth are also a genetic deformity. Although a hamster with a missing limb will often survive, adapt and live a long life it should not be bred from as the deformity can be passed to offspring. Also the mother and/or father which passed the deformity should not be bred from again. Some illnesses such as diabetes and kidney failure can be passed to offspring and so any hamster suffering from these illnesses should not be bred from. Susceptibility to Wet Tail is also thought to be genetically inherited and so it is best not to breed from any hamster that has suffered from Wet Tail during its life.

Heat stroke

Heat Stroke (or Sleeper's Disease as it is sometimes known) occurs when the temperature is too high. The hamster lies flat on the cage floor, is limp and may tremble when touched. Often the hamster will show some movement if you blow on it but if this does not revive it, the hamster should be placed in cooler area and allowed to gradually cool down. If the hamster shows no improvement within a few moments it may be necessary to gently spray the hamster with a fine mist of cool water. If the hamster still shows no improvement within a few moments urgent veterinary advice should be sought. A hamster should never be placed near a window or left in a car on a warm day as these are the most common cause heat stroke. A hamster suffering from heat stroke may also become dehydrated.

Hibernation

Syrian hamsters can hibernate when there is a sudden change in their environment ie sudden temperature drop, lack of water, etc. A hibernating hamster may appear stiff and cold with little evidence of breathing and many owners have assumed a hibernating hamster to be dead at first. Careful observation will reveal that the whiskers continue to twitch at intervals if the hamster is hibernating. Due to the fact that hamsters do not 'plan' to hibernate but it is induced by a sudden environment change they should be roused to avoid dehydration and starvation. The hamster should be placed in a warm room or the temperature of the room increased slightly. The hamster should not be placed near a fire or on a radiator or anywhere in extreme heat. As the hamster begins to rouse the hamster will start to shake and tremble, the body temperature will gradually rise and the twitching of the whiskers will increase. Full arousal from hibernation can often take between 30 and 60 minutes. Once the hamster is active plenty of food and water should be available and the hamster should be left quietly. Dwarf Hamsters deal much better with colder temperatures than Syrian Hamsters and are not known to hibernate.

Impacted cheekpouches

A hamster uses its cheekpouches to carry food and bedding material. Occasionally an item may become stuck to the lining of the pouch. This usually occurs with fluffy bedding or sticky foods such as chocolate or toffee (these items should therefore be avoided). Sharp items of food may also pierce the lining of the pouch and become stuck. The hamster is then unable to remove the item from its cheekpouch and this can lead to an infection or abscess. If a hamster appears to be unable to empty its cheekpouches or any lumps remain continually in the pouch veterinary treatment should be sought. Often syringing the cheekpouch with lukewarm water will remove the offending item, or it may be necessary for the vet to physically turn the cheekpouch inside-out to remove the item. Antibiotic treatment may be needed if the cheekpouch has become infected. Once treated, full recovery is usually made within a few days.

Loss of limbs

A hamster may lose a limb due to accident or genetic deformity. If a hamster loses a limb due to accident the wound will need veterinary treatment to avoid infection. If the hamster is missing a limb due to genetic deformity it should not be bred from as the deformity can be passed to offspring. Also the mother and/or father which passed the deformity should not be bred from again. A hamster with a missing limb will adapt and cope surprisingly well.

Lung infection / Pneumonia

A hamster may develop respiratory problems due to an allergy, cold, bronchitis or pneumonia, or lung infection. A lung infection can cause the hamster to shiver and wheeze and the hamster may also chatter its teeth and show signs of weight loss. The hamster should be taken to a vet immediately to receive antibiotic treatment. Early treatment is vital to ensure recovery.

Mange

Mange is a severe problem caused by mites which may be passed from other infected hamsters or hay infected with mites and it is highly infectious. The hamster scratches a lot, particularly around its ears, has dry flakey skin and obvious fur loss, particularly on the back. There may also be scabs around the ears, nose and genitals. The hamster should be isolated from any others, the cage should be thoroughly disinfected using a disinfectant specifically designed for small animal cages. Any hay should be removed and replaced with paper bedding and veterinary treatment should be sought immediately. A vet can take a skin scraping to confirm that the hamster is suffering from mange.

Mites

Mites are usually transferred by contact with other animals or from hay containing mites. The mites will irritate the hamster's skin and so the may hamster scratch excessively. The skin may also appear sore and there may be some fur loss. On close inspection the mites may be seen as small specks moving through the coat of the hamster. Some mites are more easily seen in the dark under torch light. Mild cases of mite infestations can be treated with an anti-mite spray designed for caged birds or small animals available from pet shops. The head of the hamster should be shielded to avoid spraying into the eyes and the body sprayed. The cage should be cleaned, sprayed with the anti-mite spray and clean bedding should be provided. This treatment should be repeated as directed on the anti-mite spray. Hamsters suffering from mites should be isolated from any other hamsters or animals and be placed in a room of their own to avoid spreading mites to other animals. If mild cases fail to improve within a day or two or in cases of severe mite infestation, or if signs of Mange develop veterinary treatment should be sought. A vet can take a skin scraping to confirm the hamster has mites.

Nails

Occasionally a hamster's toenails may become overgrown. Dwarf Campbells Russians do have very long nails as they mature and this is usually nothing to worry about. However, if a hamster is scratching itself during washing due to long nails or the nails are starting to curl underneath the feet then they will need treatment. Lining a box with sandpaper and letting the hamster run around in the box for a short while each evening will often file the nails down. (Sandpaper should not be used to line the floor of the cage.) However, in some cases it may be necessary file the nails down with a nail file or to clip them. If you attempt to do this yourself you will need someone else to hold the hamster while you file or clip the nails and you must be careful not to cut the nails down too much as you may cause the nails to bleed. Alternatively you can take the hamster to a vet to get the nails clipped.

Old age

As a hamster passes the age of one year signs of old age may appear such as fur loss, some weight loss and a general slowing down, although many hamsters do not show signs of old age until much later. If the hamster is becoming slower or is sleeping more than usual the amount of exercise and handling should be reduced and extra care may be needed to ensure your hamster is kept warm. It is important to regularly check the hamster's teeth to ensure that they are not broken or overgrown which can cause problems with eating. Any sign of illness should be quickly treated by a vet as an elderly hamster may deteriorate very quickly when ill.

Pneumonia

A hamster may develop respiratory problems due to an allergy, cold, bronchitis or pneumonia, or lung infection. A lung infection can cause the hamster to shiver and wheeze and the hamster may also chatter its teeth and show signs of weight loss. The hamster should be taken to a vet immediately to receive antibiotic treatment. Early treatment is vital to ensure recovery.

Rectal prolapse

A hamster may suffer from a rectal prolapse where the intestine is pushed through the anus to the outside of the body. If the intestine is not damaged a vet may be able to manipulate the intestine back inside the body. However, if the intestine is damaged this may not be possible. Often it is diarrohea or constipation that is the cause of the excessive straining that has caused the rectal prolapse and if this continues the rectal prolapse may recur.

Ringworm

Ringworm is a contagious skin disease caused by fungal infection. The hamster has circular bald patches where the skin is dry and crusty and the hamster may scratch. The hamster should be isolated from other hamsters and any other animals and veterinary treatment should be sought immediately.

Scent glands

Excessive stickiness (wetness beyond the raised area), excessive redness or swelling may be a sign of infection. Excessive swelling with no secretion may be an indication that the gland is blocked. Any signs of infection should be checked by a vet as antibiotic treatment may be required.

Shock

Sometimes a hamster may fall or injure itself and will suffer from shock. Sometimes the cause of the hamster's shock may not be known. The hamster may appear limp and quiet as if dazed with a rapid pulse. The hamster may also be slightly colder in temperature than normal. The hamster should be rubbed gently to encourage blood circulation and then placed somewhere warm, dark and quiet. If the hamster does not recover within a few minutes veterinary advice should be sought. Any injury suffered may also require veterinary treatment.

Skin infections

A hamster may suffer from a skin infection resulting from mites, mange, ringworm, allergy or some other cause such as fungal infection. The hamster may show signs of fur loss, irritated or flaky skin and excessive scratching or skin sensitivity. The fur should be inspected for signs of mites and consideration given to any change in the hamster's environment which could have caused an allergic reaction. If the cause of the skin irritation is not established veterinary advice should be sought.

Strokes

Hamsters can suffer from strokes and these most often occur overnight when the hamster is active. The hamster may appear unco-ordinated with semi-paralysis on one side of the body resulting in a head tilt and inability to walk straight. The hamster may also fall over repeatedly or be unable to sit up. Many hamsters do recover well from strokes but it is essential in the early days following a stroke that the hamster continues to eat and drink and depending on the severity of the stroke it may be necessary to hand feed the hamster and take it to the water bottle to enable it to drink, or place the hamster in the nest with some food and move the water bottle close to the nest. Hamsters that have suffered strokes usually show some improvement within a couple of days and will continue to improve over the next few weeks, regaining their mobility and co-ordination. However, some head tilt may remain. Another cause of head tilt and loss of balance may be an ear infection and therefore if the hamster shows no improvement within a day or two veterinary advice should be sought as it may be a cureable ear infection.

Teeth

Hamsters are rodents and therefore their teeth grow continuously. This means that a hamster needs to grind its teeth down regularly to stop them from overgrowing and the hamster does this by gnawing on something hard. Many hamsters will use the bars of the cage to gnaw on or there are wood chews available from pet shops. Apple wood and hard dog biscuits will also help the hamster to keep its teeth trim. If a hamster had nothing to gnaw on to keep its teeth in trim the teeth may overgrow and could puncture the mouth or jaw. Abnormal conformation of the teeth can sometimes occur for congenital reasons, affected family lines should not be bred from. Hamsters are one of the few animals born with fully developed teeth. Occasionally a hamster may break a tooth and when this happens the opposite tooth may overgrow because it has nothing to press upon. In the same way if one tooth grows crooked or becomes curved the opposite tooth may overggrow. Older hamsters are prone to teeth that may break easily and teeth that grow crooked so it is important that you check your hamster's teeth when they are older to see that they are growing correctly and it is a good idea to check a younger hamster's teeth from time to time also. This can be done by simply gently pulling the skin around the back of the neck, forcing your hamster to 'smile' by pulling the skin back away from the mouth, revealing its teeth. If a hamster's teeth become overgrown they can be clipped using a pair of nail clippers but care must be taken to avoid cutting the tongue or cheek. To cut the hamster's teeth, hold the hamster by a good scruff of neck forcing the hamster to 'smile' and ensuring that the hamster remains still. Place the nail clippers around the tooth to be cut, ensuring that the blade behind the tooth is pressed firmly against the tooth to ensure the tongue is out of the way and clip. Many owners will not want to risk cutting the teeth themselves and a vet will be able to clip a hamster's teeth. However, if you have an older hamster whose teeth are growing crooked or curved regular clipping of the teeth may be needed and so you may wish to get the vet to show you how to do it yourself and watch you do it for the first time, before attempting it on your own. Some hamsters may have real problems with their teeth as they grow older - some have been known to have teeth break continually making it difficult to eat. Older hamsters who have trouble eating because of their teeth can be fed soft foods such as bread, scrambled egg, porridge and hamster mix softened in water or milk. It is thought by some that a hamsters teeth may break more easily if the diet is low in calcium, this may happen when there are too many sunflower seeds fed as part of the diet. Dog biscuits are a good source of calcium as well as an object to gnaw on, other good sources of calcium would be cheese and milk. Tooth decay [ Dental Caries ] is becoming more common in the hamster, this is probably related to the sweet hamster snacks which are increasingly becoming available. Signs that this is occurring would include difficulty in eating, salivation and facial swelling. It is possible to extract affected teeth under a general anaesthetic.

Tumours

Tumours and Cancers usually occur in older hamsters and are more common in females than in males. Internal tumours such as those involving internal organs may be difficult to treat but many external tumours can be successfully surgically removed. A hamster suffering from cancer may develop a hard lump which can increase in size quite quickly. It is often difficult to distinguish between a tumour and an abscess. A tumour may be accompanied by fur loss, lethargy, poor condition or wasting but not always. On discovery of any lump veterinary advice should be sought immediately as early diagnosis increases the chances of success of surgical removal of tumours. Because of their small size there is a risk from the anaesthetic required to carry out surgery but many elderly hamsters have succesfully undergone surgery of this kind.

Wet tail

Wet Tail is a disease that is thought to be stress related and often affects young hamsters around the time of weaning, as this can be a stressful time. Therefore it is important when buying a new hamster that its cage is prepared before its arrival home and it is left to become familiar with its new surroundings in peace apart from feeding for a day or two to keep stress to a minimum. It is also thought that Wet Tail can be caused by bad living conditions, etc which could also cause stress. Wet Tail is a bacterial infection or an imbalance of the natural bacteria in the hamster's stomach or intestine and is often confused with diarrhoea. Although a hamster with Wet Tail has diarrhoea, the diarrhoea is so severe that the hamster is wet and/or dirty not only around the anus but usually around the top of the tail as well. The diarrhoea is accompanied by a strong unpleasant smell. Droppings are pale in colour and extremely soft and may contain mucus. The hamster often walks hunched up, is weak and lethargic and may squeal in pain. Symptoms take 7 days to appear and the disease is often fatal with death occurring as early as 24 hours after the appearance of the symptoms. Therefore it is vital that veterinary treatment is sought immediately if a hamster shows symptoms of Wet Tail. Do not rely on over-the-counter products such as Dri-Tail to treat Wet Tail as these are often not effective against severe cases of Wet Tail. These should only be used if it is not possible to get the hamster to a vet immediately and veterinary advice should still be sought at the earliest opportunity, but do ensure if you have used any over-the-counter product that you inform your vet when you visit. Hamsters suffering from Wet Tail often die from dehydration rather than from Wet Tail itself, or they simply refuse to eat or drink. Also, because of the severe diarrhoea Wet Tail can lead to rectal prolapse where the intestine is pushed outside the body through the anus. Veterinary treatment will consist of a course of antibiotics, anti-diarrhoeal medication and help with rehydration. The hamster should be kept warm and quiet whilst undergoing treatment and be disturbed as little as possible. Wet Tail is contagious to other hamsters and so any hamster suffering from Wet Tail should be isolated from other hamsters. It is also a good idea to wash your hands thoroughly after handling a hamster suffering from Wet Tail, to avoid passing the infection back to the hamster worsening its condition and certainly before handling other hamsters (this is best kept to a minimum). It is a good idea to remove droppings from the cage at intervals and disinfect the cage with a disinfectant designed for small animal cages when cleaning the cage. Although it is important to keep stress to a minimum it may help to clean the cage of a hamster suffering from Wet Tail every 2 or 3 days. Any equipment occupied or used by a hamster that has died from Wet Tail should be disinfected thoroughly with a disinfectant designed for small animal cages and left to stand for a few weeks before being used by another hamster. Wet Tail is a disease associated more commonly with the Syrian Hamster and is not associated with Dwarf Hamsters. Dwarf Hamsters can suffer severe diarrhoea but it is not clear at present that they actually suffer from 'Wet Tail'. Susceptibility to Wet Tail is also thought to be genetically inherited and so it is best not to breed from any hamster that has suffered from Wet Tail during its life.